June 7th, 2012 by Abhijit Chakraborty

As you might have heard, ‘Mumbai is a city, but Bombay is an emotion’. In a Mumbai that is synonymous with hustle and bustle, there are still havens of Bombay that are calm, relatively people-free, and frequented only by the true-blue Bombay lover. Come walk with us as we uncover some of these places.

1. We begin our journey at the southernmost tip of Bombay, which used to be Little Colaba 250 years ago. There is  no traffic here, except for some army cars whizzing past, sporadic BEST buses and children walking in single files to the Army School via leafy, winding lanes. You can only peep in through the open gates of the Meteorological Department and marvel at the 150 year old building here. Walk on. This is perhaps the only area where you will find names of the roads unchanged from Roberts Lane, Duxbury Lane and Upper Colaba Road.

 

2. Walk into the University’s Fort Campus. Smile nicely at the watchman and he will let you in. You are not amidst the bustling office goers, as if by magic. Look at the 150 year old Venetian-style inspired buildings. Hear the clock strike the hour. Sit on the lawns till you are shooed away. Observe those who whizz past beyond the railings to catch the 5:47 to Dahisar. Watch the splendour of the convocation hall. Hear the birds chirp.

 

3. Get off at Sewri Station on the Harbour Line and a short walk will take you to a fishing jetty. Now climb a small hillock, past a small dargah and reach the small, shabbily restored Sewri Fort. It’s no more than 300 meter squares in area. Do venture out to the parapet. What a view! The land drops down dramatically into the mangroves and thence the sea. And if you go between December and March, you will be lucky to watch the migratory flamingos; large moving blobs of pink which you must spend hours looking at, through your binoculars. It would be best to take a tour organized by Bombay Local History Society.

 

4. In a small corner of the Byculla Zoo, is a piece of heaven for the history buff. A little like Coronation Park in New Delhi’s Burari Road. Poor Queen Victoria sits there, her nose cut off. As does her son Edward VII. All of Mumbai enjoys the Kala Ghoda Arts Festival annually in February, but the man and his horse who gave the area its name must sit in indignity in the corner, like he is punished in a school-room for eternity. Walk around and see the administrators and colonial generals who once gave their names to roads in Bombay which are long since changed.

 

5. If you thought Chowpatty was the end all and be all of all beaches in Bombay, think again. If you want to be virtually alone, walk on the relatively clean sand, and not bump into anyone for hours, take a Western Railway train to Nalla Sopara. A short bus ride takes you to Rajodi. Walk the last ten minutes to the beach. Facilities here are in the range of non-existent to elementary; so carry your water, sunscreen and a thick book. Walk to the nearly Kalamb Beach for more of the same.

 

Loved exploring the city through this blog? Why not explore it for real too? Click here for the best stay options and explore to your heart’s content!

(In collaboration with Farrokh Jijina)

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