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Any tour of Meghalaya is incomplete and lacks that special something without a cultural tour of Umden village. Situated amidst lush green tropical rainforests of Meghalaya, Umden is home to the Bhoi people, a part of the vast Khasi tribe of people who are one of the earliest settlers of the region.
The village is a postcard-worthy location with picture-perfect streams and lush green meadows along with acres of forests and orchards dedicated to the cultivation of silk for which it is famous. The village also boasts of an enchanting view of the sprawling Khasi hills and numerous picturesque tea estates. This exotic silk village in Meghalaya is truly a delightful destination for a short trek and ample enjoyment during a vacation in the state.
Meghalaya is known for the heavy rainfall it experiences. Hence the ideal time for one to go to Umden is just after the monsoons through to the mid-winter. The months from September to January are ideal to tour the remote hamlet of Umden. The weather remains cool and calm following the torrential monsoon season and makes it the ideal time to enjoy the various scenic beauties the village has on display.
Umden is situated about 75 km. away from the capital city of Meghalaya which is Shillong. Cabs and share jeeps are available aplenty from Shillong to go to Umden. The share jeeps will de-board you at Nongpoh from where you have to hire an auto to reach Umden. Personal rental cabs will take you all the way to Umden but charge considerably more than share jeeps and autos.
In a nation which had gained independence through the premises of non-violence, today violence is the common norm, particularly in the political and industrial spheres. But for this exquisitely remote hamlet of Umden Arka, situated far away from the prying eyes of violence and disturbance, non-violence is the staple livelihood. Sounds a tad-bit dramatic? Well if you talk to the local people there you would understand that it’s not an exaggeration in the least bit.
The village is famous for the Eri silk which it produces and which is the most common form of sustenance and livelihood for the residents of this quaint hamlet. The silk, which is famous all over the world for its quality, is produced in a method which is entirely different than the prevalent system all over the world. This indigenous method doesn’t lead to the death of the silkworm like it happens in normal sericulture. Instead, the practitioners of this method rear the silkworms in their houses with care and protection. Amidst protests all over the world about the death of the silkworms in the silk industry, Umden stands out as one of the forerunners of ‘ahimsa’ sericulture. In the ‘80s when the industry was on the decline due to the cheaper and more available variants of silk, this village with roughly 770 households clung to its ancient tradition and is reaping the rewards today. Not only does their silk pay, but the process has converted the village into a tourist hotspot which has reinforced the economy of this tiny hamlet. This village is the harbinger of the silk culture in Meghalaya.
The weaving of this silk requires tremendous expertise because the fiber isn’t continuous and unbroken like it is in the other form of sericulture. Hence it requires an exceptional amount of patience and expertise to weave the extract the fiber. The dying process is entirely natural with natural colours which is also a big tenet of the Eri silk industry. This natural coloring of the silk ensure the longevity of the silk with respect to the other products in the market. Watching this process is truly akin to poetry in motion.
The intricate designs on the silk clothes are prepared through this process. Women of the village are mostly associated with this process. Shawls, stoles, mufflers, lungis are some of the many clothing items weaved by the people. The exquisite design on these clothes make the clothes stand out from other silk clothes. The long silk cloth for weaving of shirts and other modern wear are also supplied from the village. You can snap up a piece or two if you’re interested!
CFT Rock Garden is an ideal place to enjoy a quiet lunch at the heart of nature. Away from the daily cacophony, the garden offers a magnanimous view of the Khasi Hills in the horizon. Who doesn’t love watching the sunset in the mountains while holding hands with their loved ones and sipping on a cup of warm coffee? So, this is the perfect place to do that.
There aren’t many mountain biking tracks across India, and that’s the reason why tourists flock to bike on the mountainous hilly track which surrounds the village and offers an unforgettable panoramic view of the scenery all around. All in all it is a refreshing experience in spite of the obvious physical toil.
The short trek up to the village is a refreshing and educative one as it is not too difficult and can be undertaken even by beginners. The trek takes you through beautiful tea gardens, strawberry fields and tropical rainforests along with bamboo forests which makes for a pleasant experience.
Not really. Even though the place is famous for its silk, its natural beauty is unparalleled. The nature-oriented lifestyle of the villagers is also a major attraction as well as the local cuisines which are readily available and are cooked in the old style on bamboos. Go embark on a cultural tour of Umden to satisfy your soul and almost all the senses in turn!
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April 15, 2024 
